Mystery & reality's amalgamation is to be seen in Varanasi in each nook & corner. Undoubtedly this is the place on earth that to be studied to know human nature & at the same time the evolution of it. Now in each household of a village a common feature comes in sight in India is a flag of bamboo unfurled. This is so common that any one acknowledge it and must be intrigued to know the reality behind it & the cause of it. Early form of worship prevalent in India was a structure going up in the sky so high resembling to sky giving a sense of touching higher authority that prevails life on earth. Lat Bhairov is one such representation of early pre Aryan structure found in Varanasi. This structure is in Huien Tsang’s account of Varanasi the tallest structure in Varanasi. Lat Bhairov in British chronology was the tallest structure in Varanasi
that was destroyed in a communal violence of the city. Still the structure is revered & has the same significance but time has destroyed it to shambles. This is the purest form of worship in any part of the ancient world that indicates the common evolution of human.

Indians are religious people; a nation of religious affairs. No other county has such a tremendous influence of religion on daily affairs of people that to India. An early excavation at Harappa & Mohenjo-Daro reveals an important aspect of Indus valley civilization that is nature worship. They used to worship Matridevi & Pashupatinath. At the same time Rig-Veda recite hymns to honour wind, fire, earth & many aspect of nature worship revering plants & animals in different forms. Today each god is represented with an animal or associated with a different plant that to be worshiped with the idols. One factor; Sun is so important that not to be forgotten from ancient India to present. Varanasi has been undoubtedly the place of Sun worship for a long time. Many a water bodies’ revere Sun god: like Lolarak Kund, Surya Kund etc. Lolarak Kund is the most ancient structure present in Ghats areas somewhere pre Aryans. Many an excavations reveal sun discs in different parts of Varanasi strengthening the theory. When Muslim invaders ransacked the city & destroyed the temples & idols many of idols were saved or placed under the tree of vacant areas misplaced from their original places. Many were used as building material for new constructions so whenever to renovate a comparatively new structure some diggings are done they come up in numbers. Either mutilated or in whole. Still the most famous site seeing in Varanasi for travellers are Morning Ganga Darshan when Sun rises & for seconds whole area transforms in golden colour.

Varanasi has millions of temples dedicated to each Hindu gods & goddesses. You will find temples in each nook & corners of city dedicated to some different god or Lord Shiva. This city witnessed thousand years of development in a different form. When we compare Varanasi to any other city of world its unique not because it has all the modern amenities an ancient continuously inhabited city should have. The development in Varanasi is devotion, faith, spiritualism & transcendental. The people here not talk about modernity but the value one propagate has upper hand. One can visit different tea stalls in city in evenings & a calmness prevail in each gesture. When we talk about different concrete structure of a city it give a sense of deadness. But Varanasi is alive, it breaths. The paraphernalia of Varanasi is mind boggling. One important aspect of this architecture is Panchkoshi Yatra. It's a circumambulation of city itself. Circling sanctum sanctorum is like invigorating the power of that idol situated in temple. Its like revolving of electron to a centre. And Panchkoshi Yatra is invigorating the power of city for city's

betterment. This Yatra is done along the road Panchkoshi in five days representing five elements of human existence. This road only has the most ancient temple architecture intact in city sustaining the wither of history. The Karmadeshwar Mahadev temple is of 10th century. Undoubtedly this is the most revered Yatra in Varanasi.  

  

Varanasi has been a place of knowledge since time immemorial. Here only Panini wrote the grammar of Sanskrit. Great physician Susrut performed his difficult operations hard to think at that time. Great Lord Buddha gave his first sermon & discussed different aspects of a peaceful religion. Jain tirthankar Pasarvanath was born here only. And our late prime minister used to cross river Ganga daily just to acquire knowledge here. One such figure aluminous among them with his own light is Mata Anandamayee. India has been a place of miracles & philosophical spirituality from very beginning of human existence on earth. It has been a place of actualisations of truth. Its very interesting to here it from a foreigner who spent few years in India & wrote each individual here knows something more about human than all of foreign countries put together. Its like living a life with all the odds accepting the other part of reality & this truth which is so unique guide them to life. One ardent follower of this spiritual path is Mata Anandamayee. She was born in West Bengal. From childhood she showed inclination towards devotion to spiritualism. She started to practice Dhayana in early age & after a while she was able to see future. She shifted from Bengal to Varanasi & started to live near to Jai Ghat. At that time society was male dominant & of a female being alone was not a good stature in society. Moreover being a saint was a taboo. But Mata lived a simple life & in no time numbers of people started to throng in her Asharam. She preached simple facts to follow humanity in each aspect of living with humility. One important event of Mata Anandamayee life was when she went just before of India's independence to meet Gandhi Ji in Ahmedabad. They discussed different things & ask Mata would she return Ahmedabad again to meet him. She said I don't think so. When she was returning she told one attendant of Gandhi that please tell Mr. Gandhi that time is coming to meet me in peace. In no time after this event Gandhi died.  

Tulsidas; the great Indian poet is well renowned for his literary genius 'Ramcharitmanas' not in India alone but equally abroad as well. He was born in Rajapur, Chitrakoot in year 1532. His birth caused fear among his parents & was left with maid servant after four days of his birth. The maid looked after him for five & a half years after which she died & Tulsidas was left as an orphan. After this he was taken by his Guru Narharidas a Vaishnava ascetic. Like any other student of his Guru he was given the diksha of Virakta sect. One interesting event of his life comes at the juncture of youth after his marriage to Ratnavali. Once he was worshiping in temple, his wife left to her parents & when Tulsidas knew it he left immediately to her in night. He crossed swelled Yamuna & ascended the balcony of his wife by using a snake as a rope to meet her. His wife chided Tulsidas & said you seem to be a saint & a follower of Ram worship but just half of worship you do of my flesh body can yield more results. Hearing this Tulsidas left at once for Prayag & renounced the Grihatashram. After renouncing Grihastasharam Tulsidas travelled lot all over India like Dwarka, Puri, Badrinath & Rameshwaram & many other places to discuss with saints & find the truth. He travelled to Mansarovar Lake as well currently in Tibet where he met Kak Bhushundi one of the four author a crow of Valmiki Ramayan. After this he started to live in Varanasi permanently & started to recite Rama story for commoners. He used to visit near by forest in morning & to throw remaining water at an old tree. At that tree a Pret stayed who is always thirsty with this daily supply of water he was pleased by Tulsidas & asked him for a boon, at this Tulsidas said I would like to see Rama. The Pret told him that its beyond my strength but I can help you to locate Hanuman. He told when you recite story of Rama look for the person who come first & is last to leave. Next morning when he was reciting story he noticed a leper was first to come & last to leave. He followed leper to the same forest near about Sankatmochana. He fell to the leper feet & said I know who you are please don't forsake me. After this Lord Hanuman came in his real form & told him that he can see Rama in Chitrakoot. At last he got the Darshan of Lord Rama in Chitrakoot. Tulsidas made the figure of Hanuman in Sankatmochan area by mud. In this temple only he used to worship daily & wrote Hanuman Chalisa. When he completed the Ramcharitramans the Pandits of Varanasi disrespected his work & to prove its worth they put the Ramcharitramans at the base of Four Vedas in Vishwanath temple in night and locked the door. The condition was if it will appear at the top in the morning it will be proved of worth. The next morning when the doors opened Ramcharitramans was laying at the top of all the Vedas. Tulsidas died in 1632 at Assi Ghat in Varanasi.

Sankatmochan Temple



 

 

 

Just 8 km from Varanasi is an ancient site related to Buddhism- Sarnath. There are four sacred sites related to different life events of Lord Buddha. First one is Lumbini situated in Nepal where Lord Buddha was born. Second one is where Lord Buddha got enlightenment Bodh Gaya in Bihar. Third one is where Lord Buddha delivered his first sermon to five disciples Sarnath & the last one is where Lord Buddha got salvation Nirvana Kushinagar. All four are revered with same respect in Buddhism. When Lord Buddha got enlightenment he thought to give his knowledge but to whom he should give his knowledge. So he decided to give his first sermon to his friend who left him when he was wandering for knowledge. But as per history reveals itself Varanasi at that period of time was undisputed centre of Hinduism. And for a new religion it was important it should evolve at Varanasi. Lord Buddha travelled from Bodh Gaya to Rishipattan or Saranganath place of deer & gave his first sermon to Kondanna, Bhaddiya, Vappa, Mahanama & Assaji & changed the Wheel of Dharma. One magnificent statue in Sarnath museum present this important episode of Lord Buddha's life. Buddhism spread throughout India & other parts of the world when King Ashoka came into power. Here in Sarnath he established a marvellous image of four lions facing four directions joined together with the Wheel of Dharma. After independence this became the national symbol of India. This statue is as well in Sarnath museum. There are three Stupas in Sarnath in which two are intact while the third one has been totally diapered. To make Jagatganj in Varanasi Jagat Singh destroyed that beautiful architecture completely. The visible Stupas are Dhammek Stupa & Chaukhandi Stupa. Dhammek Stupa is an architecture of Gupta's period. On the other hand Chaukhandi Stupa was refurbished at the period of Akbar to commemorate the stay of Humayu at this place. Excavation is in process at this site & new findings are still being unearthed. Other important place in Sarnath is excavated area around Dhammek Stupa that reveals ancient habitat of Buddhist Monks.  

 

 

 

Once Koshala was a great kingdom, & king Sagara was performing Ashwamedha Yagna suddenly he lost the track of sacrificial horse. He sent his 60 thousands sons to find the horse. They searched horse in every corner of earth & destroyed everything that came in their path. At last they reached to sage Kapila asharam & the saw the horse tied their. They shouted on sage of stealing the horse that made Kapila enraged & he burned all of them in ashes. King Sagara waiting for his sons send his grandson Anshuman to whom Kapila said that only performing Dah Sanskara of all of them on the presence of sacred river Ganga would yield them Nirvana. Many kings of dynasty performed austere penance but could not bring Ganga on earth by the time their curse multiplied & it started to destroy the Koshala kingdom. And then king Bhagirathi did penance for 1000 years & made Lord Brahma happy to send Ganga on earth, but the force of river was so destructive that earth will not be able to hold it. For that Brahma told Bhagirathi to pray Lord Shiva. After a year of penance Lord Shiva appeared & told Bhagirathi that his wish would be fulfilled. When Ganga was falling from heaven everybody was so afraid that everything would be destroyed. Ganga became proud of his power & came forcefully. As it was going to hit the earth Lord Shiva captured it in his Jata. Ganga was helpless to come out of it. At this Bhagirathi prayed Shiva again & said the cause is something else at this Lord Shiva released Ganga crushing her vanity. Ganga flowed behind Bhagirathi giving liberation to all his ancestors & reached near Varanasi. Varanasi is eternal abode of Shiva so to pay the homage to the city Ganga flew Northward. Whoever dies in this city of Shiva Ganga takes them straight to the heaven.    

 

 

 

Varanasi has millions of temples but none as auspicious as Vishwanath Temple. Etymologically Vishwanath means lord of the universe, & so is true by evaluating numbers of visitors visiting this temple. The city in ancient past was divided in three parts, Omkareshwar, Vishveshwar & Kedareshwar & in middle Vishveshwar Khand Temple Vishwanath is situated. Ancient records show immense importance to this temple. Chinese traveller Hiuen Tsang visited Varanasi in 6th century & noted a great statue of Shiva nearly 100 feet high seeing it from Sarnath. This was none other than Vishwanath. Vishwanath temple has been demolished five times & site shifted toward south of its original place. At present the original place has a mosque named Razia Mosque. In Indian religion any structure of god is a mere representation of unknown & when its destroyed other image take place & rituals of Pran Pratishtha is done to reinvigorate the structure. So the site shifting is of no value in terms of the importance of a concept of worship. When we talk about Vishwanath Temple its of no such grandeur of past but still the dome of the temple is still gold plated. The sanctum sanctorum has a Shiva's linga mostly submerged in milk & water with Bilwa leaves. Enchanting mantras is a common sight at the temple all day & no such time is possible when one can see the temple empty.       

 

 

 

Above the Ghats of Varanasi its a unique system of narrow lanes that intrigues visitors most. Sometimes its really mesmerising to see all these lanes reaching somewhere after giving a sense of looseness. One can enter any of the lane & measure through more narrower lanes to the end of the city. These lanes are designed as such like the sinew of a human body. Varanasi is not a city only its Shiva itself. City is body of Shiva, from Assi to Varuna river just make a circle which move along Panchkoshi road & one will find its Shiva linga. And there is not a single doubt that these lanes are his sinew spreading from Assi to Varuna. The aluminous eternal light emerged was this city's boundary itself.  Story says when Lord Vishnu & Brahma were fighting for the supremacy a light emerged that had no beginning nor ending. Lord Vishnu dug deep to find the base of life & Brahma went upward in sky to find the beginning but of no avail. Lord Vishnu revered the light but Brahma lied that to see the beginning. At that point Lord Shiva emerged from the light & at the same time bought Kal Bhairav ferocious side of Shiva & Kal Bhairav cut the fourth head of Lord Brahma. Till date its hard to find a temple dedicated to Lord Brahma in India. That aluminous light is Varanasi & its lanes are sinew. Its not a city its alive.

 

The architecture of the lanes are so unique representing master works of ancient India. In Indian architecture social gathering was so important the they built buildings in vicinity & left the vast areas for greenery. The houses in lanes are four to five stories high rather than occupying more lands. They are going upward to space for newer members of family. From inside its like having an inner Varanda, encircled by rooms. For ventilation its a unique architecture. When the houses go upward they start to make narrow lanes much cooler. In India of scorching temperature of 45 degree its really hard to sustain but these lanes are unique & so designed that one can tackle this heat easily.    

Varanasi has a unique crescent line river bank elaborately stuffed with numerous Ghats, mesmerising & enchanting. There are all together 84 ghats lined side by side from Assi to Raj Ghat. The city is east facing boundaries laying between Assi & Varuna rivers. The direction of the sacred river Ganga is northward in city. In Indian culture a place where two rivers join is sacred so in Varanasi the numbers are three. In earlier post I have mentioned the city name as Anandvan. 

In ancient past Varanasi had numerous water bodies inside the city among them two important ones were Matsyodri Kund & Godavari now known as inhabited areas named Godwalia & Machhodari. James Princep drew the Matsyodri Kund in his drawings of Varanasi. Generally the flow of Matsyodri was northward into Varuna river & Godavari eastward in Ganga, but at the time of rains river Ganga increased & flowed in Varuna & Matyodari Kund that flowed towards Godavari & in Ganga again. So the whole are used to become an island. At that time it was venerated most & was a time of large congregation or Tirth. Further to this area all surroundings were forests with many Asharams & Maths. At that time it was called as Anandvan, a city so unique which had all the pious signs & inhabited by Shiva & Parvati. Ares like Kamachha, Durga Kund, Kinaram etc. were inhabited by Tantric cults worshiping ancient Gods of India Matridevi & Pashupatinath. They were nature worshipers & venerated natural sings. One major aspect of Varanasi is found in Indian religious texts that buying & selling lands in city is prohibited. 

A place so unique & representing cosmological city can't be inhabited by no one from outside. At that point of time mighty Kings & Kingdoms built there Havelies & Forts at river bank not to reside but for locals & Pandits, so in future whenever they will come to city they could reside there. One aspect of River Ganga is so crucial not to negate is that no structure can hold the force of river in rainy season. So to secure the forts they built Stairs going deep down into the river that can hold sliding sands from river current. The engineering of Ghats is so well planned & studious that even after these long years they are still intact even with daily use of thousands.         

 

 

Once on earth every kingdom was destroyed, the existence of mankind was in danger by not abiding the law of Dharma. Indian system is divided is four cast Brahman, Kshatriya, Vaishya & Sudra, all four are born from Adi Pursha's four parts. Brahmans are born from the mouth of the eternal Purusha, Kshatriya from hand & chest part, Vaishya from thigh & Sudra's from feet. Each one has a certain duties of their nature. Kashtriya reside as king & reign the kingdom by the law of Dharma. But at that time Dharma was not in nature anymore. Existence of Gods depend on the deeds of human, so they feared if mankind would be destroyed they will have no existence as well. They searched & found Divodas who was the only king abiding the law of Dharma living in forest of bliss. Gods asked him to reign Kashi & re-establish the earth on the law of Dharma. Divodas condition was that if only Gods will leave Kashi, he will reside on the throne of Kashi. Having no other option gods accepted his condition & let him reside on the throne of Kashi & left for Heaven. By his power of Dharma Divodas re-established the city. Everyone had everything in this city of Kashi & law of Dharma was established. Many years latter when gods craved to come to Kashi again they could find no way to enter in the city. They came in different forms to find a single fault of king & by violation of pact they will enter in city. Living few years in city they were conditioned by the law of Dharma & became residents of Kashi in Divodas kingdom. They forgot their virtues & followed Divodas. Finally lord Ganesha came & made king think that having everything in Kashi he has no mental peace. Lord Ganesha told him that ten days later a saint will come & soothe him from his distractions. Lord Vishnu came in disguise of saint & told him Oh! King undoubtedly you are the one who established Law of Dharma on earth again & saved it. You are the one who created every element by shear power of Dharma just to save earth. But just one deed of yours to ask Shiva to leave his beloved city is cursing your mental peace. By no means your deed is right. You need to correct it by making a Shiv Linga & worship him to come his city-Anandavan. King did the same & Shiva returned to his city.   

 



The Anandvan, known as Varanasi & by different names such as Kashi, Banaras or Mahashamshan, is the oldest living city of the world. In Vadic texts the city is mentioned as 'Older than History.' The city situated on the confluence of rivers Varuna & Assi, meeting with river Ganga is the capital city of Kashi Kshetra. Standing way above the world on the Shiva's trident. The holy of the holiest places present in world & sacred to the places beyond universe. Varanasi is a city of light that transcends one from circle of life & death to salvation. Ancient name of city is Kashi- in Sanskrit it stands for Light. In Kashi Khanda of Skanda Purana the origin of city is not mentioned but it tells that Gods & Goddesses crave to live in this city for ultimate salvation. Here only the Illuminated light born that has no beginning or ending; the form of Rudra(Shiva) & since than this city belonged to Shiva. Shiva with his entourage & beloved wife Parvati reside even at the time of destruction & save the city on his trident. Any other place on earth is for people to live & enjoy life but this city of Shiva is for death, here people live to die; so this is known as Mahashamshan.

Earlier geography of the city with years of destructions & reconstructions presents distorted form of this beautiful city named Anandavan. Shiva is a god of little things those are disliked by general norms like living in cremation ground, using ashes of dead bodies & with many odds dancing to destroy the universe. But here he lives with his wife the most beautiful place in three Lokas. This city had numerous lakes, Kunds, three rivers & forest of bliss. The north ward direction of river Ganga at this place represents the salvation property taking human to another place, the heaven. One study conducted to know the importance of water bodies of city revealed these represent the auspicious star formation still after those long years of destruction. In Indian religious texts human body is made of five elements Earth, Sky, Fire, Wind & Water and all other things are mere formations of these elements. The temple of Omkareshwar in northern quarter of city represent the same phenomena & one of the oldest temple situated in city till date. The universal OM itself is of five letters A, U & M, Nad & Tal. So the pious city Varanasi is of Five kosh. The circumambulation of this five kosh is the most revered worship of this city. One interesting fact about the city is that it has all the religious places scattered in different parts of India like Kedarnath, Dwarika, Rameshwarm etc. Question arises why on earth somebody will do this arduous task first to collect data of all the places & than make a replica of it at this place. Just for convenience not to take the hard task again of travelling such a remote places. But concept of pilgrimage in India is different if someone worship replica is like remembering the whole but to visit whole has no substitute for replica. At last with the hardships pilgrims visit the original place not the replica. But the city Varanasi visited once give fruit of all the pilgrimages & more and pilgrims need not to visit anything else. This phenomena is truly to be called as such, other pilgrimage are there but Varanasi is whole & once visited give ultimate bliss.